Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Vino Bello

A couple of months ago I submitted a pattern for winter Knitty. It was my first attempt at such a bold endeavor, and I've been waiting on pins and needles ever since. I got my response today, and sadly I was not accepted. I wasn't really expecting to be chosen...after all, I'm sure they get hundreds of patterns every issue. I was just hoping, you know? Anyway, I don't see the point in hoarding the pattern for myself, so I'm posting it here (and will be linking the pattern to Ravelry as soon as I'm done). I hope Knitty doesn't mind me leaving it in their format. I don't have anywhere to upload a PDF right now, but I can email it upon request.

(More pictures available here.)

copyright 2007 Merin McManus. Pattern is free for personal use - you may not profit from it in any way without the author's express written permission.

Vino Bello is a deceptively simple, quick-to-knit wine bottle bag. Saturday evening soirée? Cast on Saturday morning, and swing by the liquor store on your way to the party. The yarn is lovely and drapey, and the finished product is, in my opinion, way classier than the paper wine bottle bags and boxes sold in stores. No one has to know that it only took you a few hours to make! Substitute a variety of yarns for a variety of results - I'm sure it would look equally great in a cushy chenille, or perhaps even a fuzzy mohair. The small yardage required makes it an ideal project for using that one skein of luscious yarn you just had to have. Choose anything that will have a nice, soft drape at the intended gauge.

Pattern utilizes the diagonal mosaic stitch pattern in Vogue Stitchionary (modified to work in the round).

Photo credit
Model: Gewürztraminer by Fetzer Vineyards
photos: Merin McManus
Shot at Woodward Park and Tulsa Rose Gardens in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

One (the pictured bottle is 9.5 inches in circumference at its widest point, and 13 inches tall from the base to the top of the neck, cork not included)

Length: 12 inches (laid flat)
Circumference: approx. 9 inches

[MC] Berroco Ultra Silk [20% silk/40% rayon/40% nylon; 98 yd/90 m per 50g skein]; color: 6147; 1 ball

1 set US #8/5.25 mm double-point needles

notions required
tapestry needle
a yard (or so) of coordinating ribbon (or anything else) to use as a tie
4 stitch markers (optional)

20 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

One ball is JUST enough to finish this project as written. I ended up with 8-10 feet (at most) leftover, which I cut in to four equal lengths and used as a tie. If you a) would like to make a matching I-cord tie, b) have a burning desire to keep your gauge swatch, or c) are otherwise uncomfortable with that little room for error, pick up two skeins, preferably from a LYS with a return policy for unused balls. If you want to make several, purchase one ball per bag, and then get one extra ball for good measure. The pattern could also easily be reversed and worked from the bottom up so that you could simply stop when you're nearly out of yarn.

Gauge is not crucial, as the finished product will stretch considerably in all directions, but if you are knitting too loosely you will risk running out of yarn.

CO 48 sts. Divide sts evenly between 3 double-point needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. (You may, if you desire, divide the sts between 4 DPNs instead. I only recommend 3 because you will end up with one pattern repeat per needle, eliminating the need for stitch markers to mark the repeats.)

Round 1 and all odd numbered rounds: *K*
Round 2: *K2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1*
Round 4: *K3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2*
Round 6: *K4, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k3*
Round 8: *K5, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k3*
Round 10: *K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k2*
Round 12: *K2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1*
Round 14: *K1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk*
Round 16: *K3tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo*
Round 18: *YO, k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog*
Round 20: *K4, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo*
Round 22: *K3, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, k3tog, yo, k1*
Round 24: *K2, k2tog, yo, k8, k2tog, yo, k2*
Round 26: *K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k3*
Round 28: *K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k4*
Round 30: *YO, k5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog*
Round 32: *K1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo*

Repeat rows 1-32 once more.

Knit two rounds even.

At this point, since the decrease repeats four times per round, you may wish to redistribute the stitches on four needles. That way, you will simply be knitting two together at the end of each needle, again eliminating the need for stitch markers.

Begin decreases:

Round 1: *K10, k2tog* (44 sts)
Round 2: *K*
Round 3: *K9, k2tog* (40 sts)
Round 4: *K*
Round 5: *K8, k2tog* (36 sts)
Round 6: *K7, k2tog* (32 sts)
Round 7: *K6, k2tog* (28 sts)
Round 8: *K5, k2tog* (24 sts)
Round 9: *K4, k2tog* (20 sts)
Round 10: *K3, k2tog* (16 sts)
Round 11: *K2, k2tog* (12 sts)
Round 12: *K1, k2tog* (8 sts)

Break yarn. Draw tail through remaining stitches and cinch closed. Weave in ends.

Merin and her husband live in Oklahoma with their cat. She works primarily to support her yarn habit, and longs for the day when she can quit her job and become a lady of leisure. Every once in a while, she remembers she has a blog and posts something.

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